After a five-year hiatus, North Korea has reopened its doors to Western tourists, an event marked by both intrigue and controversy. The resumption of tourism, facilitated by two Western companies—Young Pioneer Tours and Koryo Tours—comes at a time when the nation remains isolated from much of the world. This move is contentious, given that travelers are being allowed back before aid workers and most Western diplomats, raising questions about the priorities and intentions of the regime.
The hermit kingdom, which had sealed its borders during the pandemic, has relied heavily on the support of allies such as Russia and China to navigate its isolation. The return of tourism signals a potential shift, albeit controlled and cautious. Visitors are accompanied by local guides who adhere strictly to a pre-approved schedule, reflecting the country's secretive and repressive nature. North Korea has always fascinated outsiders with its enigmatic aura, yet it remains a place where freedom of speech is heavily restricted.
The tourism experience in North Korea is uniquely structured. Upon arrival, tourists undergo rigorous health checks, with their luggage disinfected at the border and temperatures taken as a precautionary measure against Covid-19. Despite these protocols, approximately half of the North Korean population continues to wear masks, indicating lingering concerns about the virus. Local guides inform tourists that the virus entered the country via a balloon from South Korea and was eradicated within 90 days.
"On the surface they are still concerned. Our luggage was disinfected at the border, our temperatures were taken, and about 50% of people are still wearing masks." – Greg
While the structured itinerary limits direct interaction with local residents, tourists can engage with their guides, who sometimes speak English. These guides are pivotal in shaping visitors' perceptions, often reiterating government narratives. However, tourists have noted that beneath the surface, North Koreans possess opinions and a sense of humor, which emerges during interactions.
"The North Koreans aren't robots. They have opinions, goals, and a sense of humour. And in our briefing we encourage people to listen to and understand them." – Rowan Beard
Despite the regime's attempts to present an idealized image of the country through photographs, reality paints a different picture. Roads are poorly maintained, pavements uneven, and buildings oddly constructed. The tourists' journey excludes Pyongyang, the capital city known for its monumental landmarks, offering instead glimpses of daily life that diverge from state propaganda.
The visitors are introduced to places like luxury goods markets where items such as jeans, perfumes, and imitation luxury goods—likely imported from China—are sold. This experience provides a rare view into the commercial exchanges within the country.
"It felt messy and real; a place North Koreans actually go. I loved it." – Joe
However, these explorations are not without their challenges. The tourists must remain within the confines set by their guides and cannot leave their hotels unaccompanied. Such restrictions underscore the controlled nature of their visit and highlight the ongoing tension between curiosity and caution.
"You can't leave the hotel without the guides," – Ben Weston
These restrictions create a peculiar atmosphere where tourists find themselves navigating both physical spaces and cultural expectations. Some have reported feeling nervous during interactions, uncertain about how to appropriately engage with the locals within such a tightly monitored environment.
"I went blank and wrote something like 'I wish the world peace.' Afterwards my guide told me that was an inappropriate thing to write. That made me paranoid," – Mike
Despite these constraints, some tourists appreciate the opportunity for engagement, recognizing its value in a country as closed-off as North Korea. The chance for locals to interact with foreigners can inspire new ideas and perspectives, albeit within limits.
"North Koreans get the chance to engage with foreigners. This allows them to come up with new ideas, which, in a country this closed, is so important." – Greg
The presence of Chinese businesspeople running joint enterprises with North Koreans adds another dimension to the economic landscape. These entrepreneurs enjoy relatively free movement in and out of North Korea, highlighting an area of international cooperation that contrasts with the restrictive experiences of Western tourists.
The lingering impact of stringent Covid regulations is still evident. Many Chinese businesses have closed down, leaving workers without employment. The economic repercussions are felt across various sectors, adding another layer to the complex socio-political fabric of North Korean society.
For those who have visited multiple times, each trip offers a glimpse into the enigmatic nature of North Korea—a country that reveals itself slowly and deliberately.
"I feel like the more times you visit the less you know. Each time you get a little peek behind the curtain, which just leaves you with more questions," – Joe
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