The high fashion industry, long associated with an ideal of thinness, is witnessing a notable shift. Despite the groundbreaking body positivity movement that gained momentum in the 2010s, recent trends indicate a retreat from these ideals. Key influencers and societal shifts are driving this change, culminating in a fashion landscape that favors skinnier models over diversity in body types.
Historically, the body positivity movement emerged in the 1960s, gaining traction through icons like Marilyn Monroe, who challenged conventional beauty standards. In the past decade, the movement led to significant progress, with plus-size models being featured prominently in major campaigns and runway shows, including Rihanna's Savage x Fenty. However, this progress appears to have stagnated since around 2020.
Recent observations from Paris Fashion Week reveal a stark decline in the representation of plus-size models. In 2024, only 0.8% of looks featured plus-size models, marking a dramatic drop. Enrika, a plus-size model, expressed frustrations regarding the current state of representation. She noted not only the decrease in bookings for plus-size models but also the challenges their agents face in securing work.
The rise of cultural phenomena such as the Kardashian family's embrace of curvier body types has also influenced beauty standards globally. The popularity of Brazilian butt lift surgeries (BBLs) has surged in response to this trend. Moreover, celebrities like Elon Musk have attributed their weight loss to medications like Ozempic, which has become increasingly accessible to consumers. This shift toward medication-assisted weight loss has further complicated the narrative around body positivity.
Shaun Beyen, a casting director for Fursac, emphasized that the fashion industry is inherently consumer-driven. "If people stop producing, people will stop buying," he stated. This sentiment echoes through the industry as brands adjust their strategies to align with perceived consumer preferences. Beyen also pointed out that brands initially adopted body positivity as a commercial opportunity. When that strategy lost traction post-2020, many shifted back to traditional ideals.
The brand Namilia recently stirred controversy at the 2024 Fashion Week with its "I love Ozempic" T-shirt, intended as satire. This moment highlighted a growing awareness of the disconnect between industry practices and the body positivity movement's foundational ideals. Critics argue that such gestures merely scratch the surface without addressing deeper issues of representation and inclusivity.
Gauthier Borsarello, Fursac's creative director, admitted to his personal struggles with body image. He stated, "I hate my body. I don't want to see clothes on people like me." His perspective reflects a broader sentiment within the industry that prioritizes aspirational aesthetics over authenticity and inclusivity.
In contrast, Charles Jeffrey, a designer known for his inclusive approach, argued that brands have a moral obligation to represent diverse body types. "Body positivity was never a trend for me. It was an opportunity to start being responsible," he remarked.
Despite these contrasting viewpoints, many industry insiders agree that fashion celebrates elitism, often defined by narrow standards of beauty. Nan Li pointedly noted that "Paris celebrates elitism, and elitism means skinny and white." This exclusivity raises critical questions about the industry's commitment to genuine inclusivity.
While some brands employ tactics that superficially signal inclusivity—such as showcasing plus-size models with visible stretch marks while airbrushing those on slimmer models—Enrika criticized these practices as disingenuous. She stated that such approaches send a damaging message: "It sends the message that 'We don't actually think you look as good as the slim models in our skirt. But we accept you because we are such kind-hearted good people.'"
The changing dynamics within the fashion industry reveal a complex interplay between consumer demand and evolving beauty standards. Daniel Mitchell-Jones, co-founder of Chapter Management, observed that there has been a noticeable shift towards thinner models in recent years. He stated that "things have shifted in the industry, with more emphasis on thinness and less on body positivity."
As the industry grapples with these changes, the question remains: What does this mean for the future of body positivity? Shaun Beyen offered a hopeful perspective, asserting that "nothing is ever gone, especially not in fashion." However, it is clear that the path forward requires a concerted effort from brands to embrace inclusivity genuinely rather than merely as a marketing strategy.
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