Raniero Mancinelli, once the most famous tailor in Rome, is back in the news again. He is hard at work on new white vestments that may soon be worn by the next pope. Mancinelli has had the unique honor of serving as the tailor to the last three popes: John Paul II, Benedict XVI, and Francis. His store has served as a nerve center for clerical vestments since 1962. You’ll discover it in the atmospheric, narrow, cobblestoned historic Borgo Pio neighborhood — a short walk from the Vatican.
The next conclave will meet to elect the next pontiff after the death of Pope Francis. Towards that end, Mancinelli is designing short, medium, and long-form white robes in large and extra-large. He has not yet been given an official papal commission from the Vatican. His formidable reputation has already earned him the spotlight from cardinals stopping by Rome for Pope Francis’s funeral.
Mancinelli’s authority isn’t limited to clothing the pope. Through the decades, he has dressed scores of priests, monsignors, bishops, and cardinals. He does this by marrying sewing machine work with works executed in hand-stitching techniques to guarantee quality craftsmanship.
“Thank God I got to serve many priests throughout the years, monsignors, bishops and many cardinals. Then I also served three popes, making the white robes, (for) John Paul II, Benedict and Francis,” – Raniero Mancinelli
Ever since, each pope has introduced their own tastes to their robes. Pope Benedict favored elaborate textiles. Pope Francis has chosen to wear textiles made from simpler materials. Mancinelli remembers the specific requests of each pontiff for these ceremonial gowns.
“For Francis obviously, (it had to be) not too expensive, not valuable, a normal textile,” – Raniero Mancinelli
As Mancinelli gets ready for what many are calling the most important moment of his city’s history, he thinks about the importance of his work. With cardinals converging on Rome for the upcoming conclave, he is juggling several orders and requests. His trusty tape measure, which he often wears around his neck, makes him easily recognizable as the trade’s key worker.
Mancinelli’s devotion to his craft is evident as he works on the elaborate new robes. He expresses confidence in his creations, saying, “Making these three robes, the day he goes on to the balcony, I think that (one of them) should fit well, pretty well, if not perfectly.”
Conclave hope Conclave 2022 excitement injects urgency to Mancinelli’s task. He is aware that the garments he creates will play a part in a historic moment for the Catholic Church.
“Eminence, will you need this red robe? Maybe you need a different colour?” – Raniero Mancinelli
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