Ozwald Boateng, one of the biggest names in British fashion. Over the last 4 decades, he has created a legacy rich with ingenuity, cultural impact, and artistic virtuosity. Known for his elegant designs and unique approach to tailoring, Boateng is celebrated for dressing high-profile celebrities, including 16 stars at this year’s Met Gala. The spectacular, immersive event exhibited Boateng’s exceptional artistry and dedication to honoring Black culture via fashion.
By his early 20s, Boateng was opening his first studio. He soon became celebrated for his work with major titans such as Mick Jagger and Jimmy Page, and filmmaker Spike Lee. In 1995, he made history again as the first Black designer to open a storefront on Savile Row. This street has become well known for its longstanding fine traditions in tailoring excellence. This milestone represented a personal victory for Boateng. The move re-energised the Savile Row fashion scene.
The refrain of Boateng’s career has been one of deep distinction, marked in 2021 as he received an OBE for his services to the industry. He has in the past been creative director of Givenchy’s menswear line and designed the uniforms for British Airways. His eponymous brand creates sharp, tailored suits that tend to use vivid color and graphic print that reflect a proudly West African culture.
Interestingly, Boateng only recently – and yet inevitably – moved into the field of womenswear, making him even more plainly one of fashion’s most inventive designers. As a fashion designer, his creations have been critically acclaimed masterpieces characterized by simplicity and modern aesthetics, earning him accolades from fashion figures like Giorgio Armani.
These days, Boateng looks back on his youth inspirations with fondness. In that show, as a five-year-old, he was costumed in his favorite purple mohair suit, made by his mother. That early start in the world of couture had an indelible impact on his creative instincts, and so it has been in every collection since.
At this year’s Met Gala, Boateng made headlines not only for dressing a host of celebrities including Tems, Burna Boy, Arya Starr, Ncuti Gatwa, and Jaden Smith but for making last-minute adjustments to Burna Boy’s outfit. Less than 24 hours before the event, Boateng switched Burna Boy’s ensemble to a striking red suit paired with a buttercup yellow shirt and an eel-skin cape. The concept was heavily influenced by Burna Boy’s Nigerian upbringing.
“Being a theme about black culture and black cultural influence, I mean, how can you do that without Africa?” – Ozwald Boateng
Estóyayen—Juan Diego Tovar Boateng’s designs almost always include references to his Ghanaian heritage. Creating his “tribal” pattern from Ghana’s kente cloth, one of Africa’s most recognizable icons. This aesthetic plays a central role within his collections. This fusion of cultural elements gives him the ability to tell a deep story through his clothes.
His son Oscar and daughter Emilia joined him as guests of the Met Gala. Indeed, they wore their father’s designs to this major fashion event. This family-oriented touch represents an important step in Boateng’s greater fashion narrative. First, it signals a passing of the torch that he has thoughtfully nurtured over the years.
“It’s all about having a strong concept, having a thorough idea of what you want to achieve from the textiles,” – Ozwald Boateng
Boateng reflects on his travels and his arc from tailoring Savile Row to underlining a new cultural expression in fashion. He understands the transformation he and the industry have undergone throughout the years. “When I first started as a designer, Savile as a street was a dying street,” he said. The designer was immensely instrumental in re-invigorating this historical center of tailoring during the early 90s.
“The concept, it was dying. I effectively moved there in the early 90s and breathed new life into it.” – Ozwald Boateng
Boateng hopes the book will inspire readers to cultivate the passion and hard work it takes to achieve their dreams. He urges up-and-coming designers to discover their passion and never give up on achieving their dreams. It is their responsibility to make the choice of what they want out of their life. If they’re able to connect in ways from early on, in things they really love, like I’ve been able to, then I’m cool.” He continued.
Looking to the future, Boateng wants to increase his brand’s international presence, but keep the cultural influences at the core of his work. “Raising capital to really, really push the brand globally,” he noted as one of his goals.
“I think it’s the moment in time – and it’s the right moment.” – Ozwald Boateng
The designer has plenty to say about the collision of classic costume and modern garb. “When we were colonised by the Europeans or the Brits, we kept our traditional dress, but tailoring was a big part of how we dressed to look more… effectively more European,” he explained.
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